Early spring is the prefect time for pruning summer-flowering trees and shrubs.

Gardening activities for the month of March will depend a lot on the time of the month and of course the weather.
Early to mid-March is a good time for pruning fruit trees as well as deciduous trees and shrubs.
Just remember not to prune any early spring flowering shrubs, like azaleas, flowering quince, rhododendrons, lilacs, forsythia and especially macrophylla hydrangeas. Pruning these and other early spring flowering plants will cut off their buds and they will not bloom, so if pruning of these plants are needed do it after they are done blooming.
Also remember the general rule of thumb for when to prune flowering plants is generally after they have finished blooming.
More on pruning, if you must prune any spring-flowering shrubs in March, only remove the obvious broken or dead branches and stems and take off any leftover flower seed heads.
Summer-flowering trees and shrubs should be pruned in late winter or early spring (March is perfect), before the new growth begins. You can prune shrubs like butterfly bushes, Crape Myrtles and roses, A good rule of thumb is to prune back knock-out roses down to your knee and do the same for your butterfly bush.
Prune miniature butterfly bushes sparingly, never more than a third of the total plant mass. Cut off the seed heads of all Crape Myrtles and prune no more than one third of the total plant mass.
Do not prune the upper branches in the same place as last year, and take out any branches that are growing below 10 and 2 o’clock on any tree as they are weaker branches that can break off in the wind or if snow or ice builds up.
Remove any sprouts at the base of Crape Myrtles, fruit trees and deciduous trees. Theses branches have no value to the main plant and they take nutrients and water away from the plant.
Mid-March signals the time to begin planting cool season vegetable seeds. depending on the weather and condition of the soil. Remember if the soil is to wet, be patient and wait rather than having the seed rot from to much moisture.
Leafy vegetables like spinach, kale, collards, mustard, Swiss chard, and root crops like carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips, and radish, as well as peas, can be planted from seed during this time.
To have a continuous supply of leafy greens, make repeated sowings every couple of weeks through mid-May to have a continuous supply until the summer heat takes them out.
The middle to late March is the time to plant cold crop transplants of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce.
Same rules apply only plant when the soil can be worked. Be sure to apply some organic matter, such as Leafgro, and a water soluble plant starter when planting.
St. Patrick’s Day is the traditional time for planting potatoes on the Eastern Shore. Again, be sure the ground is workable and not too wet and when night time temperatures are at least 45 degrees at night and 55 during the days.
Be sure to use certified seed pieces with the eyes planted 3 to 5 inches deep in full sun, with well drained, slightly acidic soil (4.8 to 6.5pH ), with spacing 8” to 12” apart. Most potato varieties mature at 65 to 100 days depending on the variety. Consider using varieties such as Eva (great for winter storage) Lehigh, Norland, Reba, Red Pontiac, Russett, Superior and Yukon Gold, as these varieties all grow well here on the shore.
Summer and Fall blooming perennials can be divided and transplanted in mid- to late March as well. Astilbe, asters, bleeding heart, coral bells, daylilies, phlox and Shasta daisies all can benefit and keeps the plants healthy and thriving.
Remember to work up the bed before planting, adding compost, lime and an organic fertilizer like Flowertone or Plantone. Be sure to apply a layer of mulch and a weed preventer under the mulch, to keep any weed seed from germinating.
Be sure to take advantage of any good days this month and enjoy your time in the garden.
(Editor’s note: Ken Morgan is the owner of Robin’s Nest Floral and Garden Center in Easton, Md.)